Solvent Cementing Procedure

Solvent Cementing Procedure

1. Assemble materials needed, miter box & saw, clean rags, primer, knife. The right cement for the kind and size of PVC you are installing. And the right size applicator for the size of pipe being used.
2. Cut the pipe square. One good way is to use a miter box and saw, or a wheel cutter designed for plastic. If you use a wheel cutter, be sure to remove the burrs it makes with a file.
3. Remove burrs, inside and out!
4. Clean pipe with rag, to remove dirt and moisture.
5. Check dry fit. The pipe must enter at least 1/3 of the way into the socket without forcing it! If fit is too tight file or sand the pipe to the proper fit within the socket area. Take care not to make flats or gouges on it!
6. Apply primer to the fitting and to the pipe and to the fitting again.
7. While primer is still wet…apply cement! Flow cement on pipe with the proper applicator, then a thin coat in the fitting, then pipe again… keep applicator in cement between applications. Keep can closed when not in use. You should use an applicator at least ½ the diameter of the pipe.
8. Work quickly, while applying cement… but, do not puddle the cement inside the fitting nor let cement run down inside the pipe.
9. Assembly immediately. Be sure to bottom the socket while both surfaces are still wet, then…
10. Hold for about a minute. Get help on larger sizes, or use mechanical helpers.
11. Wipe off excess cement. Especially the bead… but don't disturb the joint.
12. Wait before disturbing, 30 minutes to 6 hours, depending on the temperature. 
13. Put in ditch carefully… and carefully means don't kick it in!
14. Snake pipe in ditch, from side to side.
15. Shade pipe with back fill, leaving joints exposed for inspection.
16. Set period will depend on - type of cement, size of pipe, temperature and humidity, and dry joint tightness. For most cases 24 – 48 hours is considered to be a safe period for the pipe system to be allowed to stand vented to atmosphere before testing. Check with solvent cement manufacturer for specific cure times.
17. Longer periods are required for low air temperatures, high humidity, large sizes of pipes, slow drying cements.
18. Bring pipe to about it's operating temperature before testing and back filling. This can be done by shade back filling, filling with water at about operating temperature, or letting it set overnight.
19. Pressure Test!